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| Date: |
November 4th, 2000 |
| Destination: |
Ash Meadows |
| Duration: |
Day trip (9 hours) |
| Departure Point: |
Westwood |
| Weather: |
Clear and mild |
| Adventurers: |
10 (David, Ted, Angie, Amy, Mike,
Andre, Hector, Eric, Colin, Joe) |
| Vehicles: |
3 |
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David, Ted, Angie, Amy, Mike, Andre, Hector, Eric |
Summary:
A current bout of mild weather combined with a forecast
for cold weather in the near future, prompted us to adventure forth on
another miniQuest while the good weather lasts. As we were researching
where to go, we stumbled upon information for Devil's Hole and Ash
Meadows. The area boasted of gigantic dunes, desert springs, exotic
wildlife, and Devil's Hole. That settled it, Ash Meadows was the
destination for this trip.
Short movie of trip [not narrated, so best viewed
after reading this page]
(View Big Movie -
recommended for cable/DSL users only)
(View Small Movie -
recommended for modem users)
Armagosa
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A crow watches our every move. |
We head out around 8:30am and go north on US95 till we reach Armagosa.
We stop to fill up the gallon
or so used to get this far. After the previous
trip (13 hours and about 13,000 miles) we were a bit wary of letting
the gas tank get below full.
While there we see a small replica tourist trap jail.
It is a short few miles from Armagosa to reach the giant sand dunes.
Armagosa Sand Dunes
The dunes are visible from quite a distance away. The dirt road leading
to them is soft and full of bumps. Mike warns us not to get too close to
the dunes. It seems on a previous trip, Mike had his vehicle sink into the
sand and almost got stuck.
Ted rushes to the top of the first dune. The rest of us eventually make
it to the top as well. Once there, we can see that the dune we climbed is
actually one of the smaller ones. A much taller dune is near, but even
that dune doesn't approach the height of the big dune in the center of the
sea of sand.
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Infrared photo of the dunes. |
Dunes tend to have one steep side. Hector and Mike decide to run
down the steep side. I decide to climb the nearby taller dune. On the
way up I spot a dune ant.
The hike is rough, but once at the top, the view
is great. While there, I snap an infrared photo. The effect is creepy with
the sand white and the sky black.
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A bird of prey watches us from the top of a power line pole. |
As we were heading back to the vehicles, some ATVs showed
up and were racing over the baby dunes. The riders were having fun, but it
was time for us to continue our fun toward Ash Meadows.
Ash Meadows
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Ash Meadows
Over 30 springs and seeps support a rich diversity of
endangered fish, invertebrates, and plants. Ash Meadows contains
over 20 plants and animal species found nowhere else in the world.
All these species have adapted over thousands of years to a
harsh environment. They can survive in thermal springs or in salty,
parched soils.
Why Preserve Species? Every wild plant and animal gives
something special to our world. Some provide food, and others we
haven't decided if they are worth saving, but better safe than
sorry.
Mesquite groves at Ash Meadows support southwestern birds,
such as the Verdin, Crissal Thrasher, and Lucy's Warbler. The trees
provide shade, nesting places, and an abundant supply of insects for
the birds to feed their nestlings. These songbirds help control
insects, including beautiful butterflies. Other birds, like quail
and sparrows, disperse a variety of seeds, including mesquite,
weeds, and flowers.
Large tracts of mesquite woods have been lost to agriculture
and development. As a result, many birds that depend upon this
habitat have declined in numbers throughout the Southwest. By
preserving these mesquite groves, we help the birds.
Crystal Spring feeds a small, but important stream that is
home to a variety of wildlife. Species such as the Ash Meadows
pupfish and gumplant rely on this constant source of water - a rare
necessity in this desert habitat. Ash Meadows Pupfish eat the algae,
toads lay their eggs in the pools, birds such as the Marsh Wrens,
Song Sparrows, and mice find shelter in the streamside vegetation.
Hawks and coyotes prey on these small animals. People, too, are
drawn to this beautiful place, and the opportunity to watch a
greater variety of wildlife.
Fire and burial pits in the sand dunes tell us that ancient
people lived here more than 1200 years ago. Their lifestyle centered
around - and depended upon - the abundant resources here. Not only
where the people attracted to the springs, but the dunes and marshes
provided abundant plant and animal foods. Mesquite and ricegrass
grew well in the sand dunes, which rapidly absorb and store
occasional rain, releasing it slowly. Ancient peoples also burned
marshes to gather mice and other animals, such as water birds, for
food.
From the styles of arrowheads and pottery found at Ash
Meadows, archaeologists know that Anasazi people, and later Paiutes,
once lived here. Archaeological investigations also tell us how the
climate and habitat changed over time. Ancient packrat nests found
in nearby hills reveal juniper seeds. The presence of these trees at
a much lower elevation than they grow today indicates that the
climate then was much cooler and wetter than it is today. Dune and
marsh excavations also reveal layers of peat moss - further proof of
a wetter past.
You are in the Mojave Desert, which receives, on average, only
four inches of rain per year. Yet here you stand before a clear
spring which discharges 2600 gallons of water per minute. Crystal
Spring is one of 30 springs and seeps on Ash Meadows National
Wildlife Refuge that together discharge over 10,000 gallons of water
every minute.
Why is all this water here and where does it come from? During
the last glacial era (12,000-20,000 years ago), much of the
southwestern United States was covered by large lakes interconnected
by rivers. After the climate began warming, the glaciers receded.
The lakes and rivers slowly dried up, leaving only springs as
habitat for aquatic species.
The green mats on the bottom of the spring are algae, the
pupfish's main food. Algae also helps determine the fish's life
cycle. During the summer, algae grows in abundance. This provides
pupfish with food energy needed to reproduce. In winter, the algae's
growth slows. With less to eat, the pupfish population declines.
Their numbers increase when the seasonal cycle repeats itself.
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Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge |
The entrance to Ash Meadows is clearly marked. From the entrance we
followed the map of Ash Meadows
we had lifted from the Internet earlier. We entered from the west side and
decided to follow the roads by turning left at every opportunity.
Peterson Reservoir
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Peterson Reservoir. This shore consisted of thick matted plants. The
center of the reservoir is filled with reeds. |
The first stop was Peterson Reservoir. It is hidden behind some
vegetation and is not visible from the road. This reservoir is very large
and is covered with reeds and coots.
Hiking further up the shore reveals a true beach. The shoreline we
first discovered was actually a thick mat of dead vegetation.
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Ted discovers an ancient artifact. |
Ted discovered an ancient artifact along the shore. It looked like a
rifle bullet to me, but who's to say. In addition to the artifact, Ted
also discovers a green shiny beetle bug. It didn't look like an endangered
species bug to me, so we continued north toward Fairbanks Spring.
Fairbanks Spring
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The roads are narrow and slightly raised above the level of the
marsh water. |
It turns out that Fairbanks Spring is covered with vegetation and the
marshy field it fills is quite large. The surrounding area is very mushy.
This spring marks the edge of Carson Slough. Imagine reeds as far as the
eye could see. That is what it looked like.
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Many of the trees are burned and the ground is covered with ash. I
guess that is why it is called Ash Meadows. |
The area was littered with the remains of burnt trees and ash. The name
Ash Meadows is rather appropriate.
Rodger's and Longstreet Spring
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Rodger's Spring is a circular clear pool with fresh water feeding in
from the bottom. |
Further down the road were two other springs. These were more
traditional of desert springs. They were a hemispherical depression of
clear water with sand boiling up at the bottom of the pool indicating
where the fresh water was coming from.
These springs were ringed with plant and animal wildlife. The wildlife
included plants of one type
or another, frogs,
insects, and birds.
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Strange birdlike engraving on a white chalk monolith. |
Also near the spring was a stone drawing on a white
chalk monolith. The marking was of a bird of some kind. Where did this
marking come from? Was it ancient or recent? We may never know, but we
will continue to look for clues as the trip proceeds.
Crystal Spring
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Crystal Spring |
Only a mile or two down the road is the ranger station. We stop there
to eat lunch and visit Crystal Spring. This spring is obviously the
showcase of Ash Meadows. The path to the spring is a boardwalk
that ends at a railed
observation deck over the spring.
Crystal Spring is large and deep. The outflow feeds a reed lined
stream. The water is crystal clear revealing pupfish and algae in
abundance.
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Sign marking the location of Devil's Hole |
Devil's Hole
Beyond Crystal Spring is Devil's Hole. This is a hidden pool that is
actually part of a large submerged cave system. The pool was fenced off
from access. There also were some strange
antennae nearby. I figure the place was under surveillance.
A sign gave a bit of reason why this pool was fenced off from access.
|
View of Devil's Hole. It is a dark pool in a deep crevasse |
The world's entire population of Devils Hole pupfish - Cyprinodon
diabolis - lives in this small, hidden pool. the pool is actually the
mouth of a water-filled cave system. In summer, when nutrients are
abundant and when pupfish eggs hatch, there may be as many as 500-600
pupfish here. In winter the population drops to 200 or fewer.
Since we couldn't get close enough to see pupfish, we didn't stay long.
After some debate it was decided to head back to Las Vegas by way of
Pahrump.
The Return Trip
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Mount Charleston as viewed from Pahrump valley |
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The return trip passed through Pahrump - heart of the new old west |
On the way toward Las Vegas, we pass through Pahrump valley. From there
we could see the backside of Mount Charleston. The view of this snowcapped
mountain quite majestic from here.
While in Pahrump, we stopped at a fireworks store. It was filled with
interesting items. Eric found a couple of very interesting items.
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Sign informing us of wildlife (probably turtles) in the area |
The sun was setting as we finished the journey back to Las Vegas. We
were on the lookout for wildlife, but it was getting dark fast.
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Wild burros |
Fortunately, before it became too dark, we discovered some wild burros!
They were undisturbed by our photographic attentions and just sauntered
away.
We took their cue and sauntered back to Las Vegas. So ends another
successful miniQuest trip.
The End
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